Bosch LH2.4 Fault Codes

Moderaatorid: 760GLE, Igor, Henn, bronec

Kasutaja avatar
vanapeer
Foorumi veteran
Postitusi: 6781
Liitunud: 02 Juul 2005, 01:31
Asukoht: valges majakeses mere ääres
Kontakt:

Bosch LH2.4 Fault Codes

PostitusPostitas vanapeer » 16 Jaan 2010, 12:55

Allikas ja pikemal siin: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

Fault Codes LH 2.4 Fault Condition
1-1-1 No faults
1-1-2 Fault in FI control unit
1-1-3* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich
1-2-1* Faulty signal to/from Air Mass Meter
1-2-3* Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor
1-3-1 Ignition system RPM signal missing on starting
1-3-2 Battery voltage too low/high
1-3-3 Throttle switch idle setting faulty or grounding fault
2-1-2* Signal missing/faulty from oxygen sensor
2-1-3 Throttle switch full load setting faulty or grounding short
2-2-1* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at part load
2-2-3 Signal missing to/from idle air control valve
2-3-1* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at part load
2-3-2* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle
3-1-1 Signal missing from speedometer
3-1-2 Signal missing for knock-related fuel enrichment
3-2-1 Cold-start injector signal shorted or missing
3-2-2 Air Mass Meter wire burn-off signal absent or faulty
3-4-4 EGR temperature signal absent or faulty



Fault Codes LH 2.4 Causes of Fault
1-1-1 N/a
1-1-2 FI module fault
1-1-3* "Mixture incorrect; O2S wiring fault"
1-2-1* Wiring fault to or in AMM
1-2-3* "Wiring fault to or in ECT sensor;grounds corroded on intake manifold or engine"
1-3-1 Wiring fault or RPM sensor bad
1-3-2 Poor battery or charging system
1-3-3 TPS failure or maladjusted
2-1-2* Wiring fault to heated O2S sensor
2-1-3 Wiring fault to TPS or TPS failure
2-2-1* "Lean; air leak; low fuel pressure; bad AMM"
2-2-3 Circuit fault to IAC or faulty IAC valve
2-3-1* }If too lean: air leaks, low fuel pressure, bad sensor
2-3-2* }If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector
3-1-1 Speedo wiring or instrument cluster wiring faulty
3-1-2 Wiring break between EZK terminal 4 and FI #28
3-2-1 Wiring break to cold-start injector or fault in injector
3-2-2 Wiring break between FI terminal 8 and AMM #4
3-4-4 Wiring break or fault in sensor


Fault Codes LH 2.4 Symptoms
1-1-1 N/a
1-1-2 None
1-1-3* High fuel consumption
1-2-1* "Various driving problems; fuel consumption"
1-2-3* Difficult to start engine when cold
1-3-1 Engine will not start
1-3-2 No faults evident
1-3-3 Above-normal idle speed
2-1-2* High fuel consumption, driving problems
2-1-3 No faults evident
2-2-1* "Engine stops when starting from cold; high fuel use"
2-2-3 "Engine difficult to start; low idle speed"
2-3-1* "}Engine stops when starting from cold; high fuel use or"
2-3-2* } various driving problems
3-1-1 Idling problems
3-1-2 No faults evident
3-2-1 Cold-start problems
3-2-2 Various driving problems due to dirty AMM wire
3-4-4 B 204 FT/GT engines only

Märksõnad otsingu jaoks: LH 2,4. LH2,4, LH 2.4, LH2.4, veakoodid, diagnost, diagnoos, veakoodide lugemine, lambda tuli põleb
Viimati muutis vanapeer, 09 Juul 2010, 11:03, muudetud 3 korda kokku.
:unibrow:

Kasutaja avatar
vanapeer
Foorumi veteran
Postitusi: 6781
Liitunud: 02 Juul 2005, 01:31
Asukoht: valges majakeses mere ääres
Kontakt:

EZK 116 (süüde)

PostitusPostitas vanapeer » 16 Jaan 2010, 12:56

Fault Codes Fault Condition
1-1-1 No fault detected
1-4-2* Control module fault
1-4-3* Knock sensor signal absent or faulty
1-4-4* No load signal from fuel injection system
1-5-4* EGR system flow too high
2-1-4 RPM sensor signal absent intermittently
2-2-4 Engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor signal absent or faulty
2-3-4 Throttle Position Switch (TPS) idle signal faulty
2-4-1* EGR system flow too low
4-1-3* EGR temperature sensor signal faulty or absent


Fault Codes Causes of Fault
1-1-1 N/a
1-4-2* EZK ignition control module faulty
1-4-3* Faulty wiring to/from/in the knock sensor
1-4-4* "Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module "
1-5-4* "Faulty EGR valve or controller, wiring; engine thermostat"
2-1-4 Faulty RPM sensor, wiring or incorrect installation
2-2-4 Faulty wiring or ECT sensor
2-3-4 "Faulty wiring or TPS; TPS adjusted incorrectly"
2-4-1* "Faulty wiring, EGR, EGR vacuum or controller; EGR temp sensor"
4-1-3* Faulty EGR temp sensor or wiring


Fault Codes Symptoms
1-1-1 N/a
1-4-2* Engine runs in limp-home mode
1-4-3* Poor acceleration, low power, high fuel cons.
1-4-4* "Engine lacks power; stalls; doesn't start or is jerky"
1-5-4* Engine idles unevenly
2-1-4 "Engine will not start; runs rough; overheats"
2-2-4 No fault symptoms evident
2-3-4 "Poor hot starting; poor idling; limp-home operation"
2-4-1* Poor idling
4-1-3* No fault symptoms evident
Viimati muutis vanapeer, 16 Jaan 2010, 13:25, muudetud 2 korda kokku.
:unibrow:

Kasutaja avatar
vanapeer
Foorumi veteran
Postitusi: 6781
Liitunud: 02 Juul 2005, 01:31
Asukoht: valges majakeses mere ääres
Kontakt:

Testimisviis

PostitusPostitas vanapeer » 16 Jaan 2010, 13:08

1. Diagnostic Test Mode 1: Fault Code Retrieval

* Place the cable into socket 2 (LH2.4/Regina/Motronic 1.8fuel injection test) or 6 (EZK116 or REX1 ignition test) as above
* Turn the ignition ON to KPII without starting the engine
* Select Mode 1 by pressing the button once and holding for more than 1 second but less than 3 seconds
* The LED lamp will flash in successive series of three digits followed by a three-second pause. If there are no fault codes stored, it will flash 1-1-1 indicating the fuel injection system is operating correctly. (If nothing flashes, see No Code.)
* Count the successive flashes and record the fault code.
* Press the button again.
* Record the fault code. If it is the same as the previous one, then no additional codes are stored. Repeat until all the codes stored are retrieved (maximum of three.)
* Refer to Table 1 for the interpretation of fault codes from the LH2.4 Fuel injection System and Table 2 for codes from the EZK 116 Ignition System.
* Move the cable into socket 6 (for ignition codes from EZK116 or REX1) or socket 2 (for fuel injection codes from LH2.4/Regina) and repeat the above.

2. Erasing Fault Codes. After you have retrieved all the Fault Codes in step 1 above, you should erase the system memory.


* Repeat step 1 above and read the fault codes again
* Press and hold the button for more than five seconds, then release it.
* When the LED lights, press the button again for more than five seconds and release. If the LED goes off, then the memory is cleared.
* To test that memory is cleared, press the button again for >1 second and <3 seconds. If code 1-1-1 is returned, then the memory is cleared.
* Repeat step 1 above with the other cable position mode (2 or 6) to erase FI or ignition codes.
* If you cannot erase the code, yet you feel the problem has been fixed, then turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery ground for a few seconds. This will clear all the codes. After starting the engine, if the code does not reappear, then you've fixed the problem. If you obtain another code, then you've still got the fault.

3. Diagnostic Test Mode 2: System Sensor Signal Test. This tests whether signals are received from certain sensors and switches. If they are, then a code flashes so indicating it.


* For vehicles equipped with air conditioning, turn the a/c control to "on."
* Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 6 for ignition-related tests.
* Press the button two times for >1 and <3 seconds each. The LED lamp should flash rapidly. (If nothing flashes, see No Code.)
* Check the throttle position switch by turning the throttle pivot wheel slightly from within the engine compartment. The LED should go out and then flash code 3-3-4 which indicates proper operation of the TPS. If no code is flashed and the lamp keeps flashing, the TPS is faulty.
* After the tests, the LED should keep flashing.
* Remove the ignition coil center lead and crank the starter motor; the engine will not start but it will turn over. The LED should go out, then flash 1-4-1 for the RPM sensor. If no code is flashed and the lamp keeps flashing, the RPM sensor is faulty. Reinstall the coil lead and turn the ignition key ON to KPII.
* Install the cable into socket 2 for fuel injection-related tests.
* Press the button two times for >1 and <3 seconds each. The LED lamp should flash.
* Activate the following sensors. If the LED diagnostic code shown (note: this is not a fault code) is present then the sensor or component is OK:
o TPS OK in full load position (when throttle is moved from full load) 3-3-3
o TPS OK in idle position (when throttle is moved from idle) 3-3-2
o RPM sensor signal from ignition OK 3-3-1
o A/C control on/off OK (when a/c switch is depressed or released) 1-1-4
o A/C compressor start OK 1-3-4
o Engine idle speed compensation for automatic tran OK 1-2-4 (depress the brake pedal, move the selector to D and then to N.)
* Exit Mode 2 by switching off the ignition.

4. Diagnostic Test Mode 3: Injection System Component Activation Test


* Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 2 for fuel-injection-related tests.
* Press the button three times for one second each time (waiting between >1 and <3 seconds before pressing again)
* The diagnostic unit then sequentially tests the following components: engine coolant fan (if equipped), fuel injectors, idle air control solenoid valve, carbon filter solenoid valve (if equipped), cold start valve, radio suppression relay and fuel pump. No code is produced: you have to listen or feel each in turn to make sure it is operating.
* Exit by switching off the ignition.

5. Diagnostic Test Mode 3: EGR System Component Activation Test (if so equipped)


* Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 6 to test the EGR system controller.
* Press the button three times for one second each time (waiting between >1 and <3 seconds before pressing again)
* The diagnostic unit then tests the EGR system controller which you can hear or feel. No code is produced.
* Exit by switching off the ignition.
Manused
DiagnosticUnit[2].gif
vilgutamismoodul
(24.78 KiB) Allalaaditud 118 korda
:unibrow:

Kasutaja avatar
vanapeer
Foorumi veteran
Postitusi: 6781
Liitunud: 02 Juul 2005, 01:31
Asukoht: valges majakeses mere ääres
Kontakt:

Ja lõpus ka üldine jutt, kuna seda niikuinii ei loeta

PostitusPostitas vanapeer » 16 Jaan 2010, 13:23

General Notes on On-Board Diagnostics in Volvo RWD Cars.

Volvo started using self-diagnostics on its Bosch LH 2.4 engine management systems in 1988 on 700 series non-turbo cars and in Regina-equipped cars. Earlier Bosch LH 2.2 and Turbo cars until 1990 had very limited self-diagnostic capability using an LED tester. In LH 2.4 cars, If a system fault occurs, then the "check engine" lamp will illuminate, signifying the presence of a fault code. For every model year using LH2.4 up to and including the '95s (except 200 series DLs and GLs), you can flash out fault codes, as well as perform input and output testing, through the OBD-I diagnostic connector unit simply by inserting a little self-contained probe and pressing a button. You do not need a special scan tool to read codes. As electronic systems were added to more Volvo models, more socket options and even more diagnostic connectors were added.

Unfortunately, you cannot use a generic code reader on any of these OBD-I cars: you have to manually extract the codes from the systems as noted below. 1996+ cars have the entirely different OBD-II system which requires a computerized code scanner to read codes through a special data link.

The diagnostic connector units for OBD-I systems are small black rectangular boxes mounted in front of the left-side(driver-side in LHD countries) shock tower. Earlier cars have only one unit ("A"); later cars have two ("A" and "B"). Diagnostic connector "A" contains the test terminal probe (the wire mounted on the side of the box in the picture) used in both A and B along with the test button and the LED readout lamp. In diagnostic connector A, socket 1 is for the electronic transmission (if your 960 or 90-series car has the AW30/40), socket 2 for fuel injection or Motronic, socket 3 for ABS, socket 6 for ignition and socket 7 for the instrument cluster. If the 1992+ car is so equipped with connector B, socket 1 is for the climate control, socket 2 for cruise control, socket 5 for the SRS and socket 6 for the memory seats.

For later 1996+ OBD-II equipped cars, the diagnostic connector was changed to an electronic data link and moved from under the hood to in front of the shifter in the console. As a result, you need a computerized scan tool to do everything from checking for codes to resetting the maintenance light. Maintenance light resetting, by the way, was returned to a push-button method in the very late '90s.

Note that 200 series DLs and GLs have self-diagnostic capability only for fuel and ignition control. All other systems except 1990-93 SRS require a proprietary tool. For '90 to '93 models with air bags, just jump a terminal to ground to get codes out of the system.
:unibrow:

Kasutaja avatar
vanapeer
Foorumi veteran
Postitusi: 6781
Liitunud: 02 Juul 2005, 01:31
Asukoht: valges majakeses mere ääres
Kontakt:

äkki vähemalt keritakse lõppu, kuna siin on lühendid

PostitusPostitas vanapeer » 16 Jaan 2010, 13:24

AMM Air Mass Meter
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
ECU Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)
FI Fuel Injection
FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator
IAC Idle Air Control solenoid valve
TB Throttle Body
TPS Throttle Position Sensor
VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor
:unibrow:


Mine

Kes on foorumil

Kasutajad foorumit lugemas: Registreeritud kasutajaid pole ja 1 külaline